卡爾廣場 - 古鹽道的必經之路 Karlsplatz - where the Salt Street passed

今天本網誌要介紹的是一個在慕尼黑似乎可以稱得上，但又有點稱不上是景點的景點。
（我知道這串描述相當繞舌，但是我相信住在慕尼黑的台灣朋友們八成也有同意的感受......。）

Today this blog is going to introduce one 50% touristic spot in Munich. (I know it's kind of hard to understand, but I think most of taiwanese friends who live in Munich could agree with me....)

卡爾廣場，德文Karlsplatz，是慕尼黑市區其中一個交通樞紐，不但有U4/U5兩條地鐵線經過，尚有路面電車以及郊區電車，相當便利。
在中古世紀，卡爾廣場是「鹽路」（Salzstraße）的必經之地。西元十二世紀時，當時的巴伐利亞公爵獅子亨利將鹽路自Föhring延伸至慕尼黑市區，自此奠定了慕尼黑財源的基礎。西元十三世紀時，慕尼黑興建了第二道護城牆，而卡爾廣場的前身就是當時諾伊豪森城門（Neuhauser Tor）（1791年改名為卡爾城門，Karlstor）的腹地。

圖片來源：自行攝影

Karlsplatz, it's one of the traffic center of Munich. Here run not only U4 and U5, but also S-Bahn and Tram.
In the middle age, Karlsplatz is place you can't miss along the Salt Route. In the 12th century, the duke of Bavaria, Henry the Lion, extended the route from Föhring to Munich, which established the financial basis of the city. In the 13th century, the second wall of Munich was erected, and Karlsplatz was the ground next to the Neuhauser Tor, which was renamed in 1791 as Karlstor.

接著於十五世紀，廣場周圍建起了圓形碉堡（Rondell），其地基也就是目前卡爾廣場下購物商場的前身。十七世紀時，由於慕尼黑四周城牆逐漸失去了其防備的意義，卡爾廣場的圓形碉堡也被改建為菱堡。

In the 15th century, the rondel was erected, its basis is known as the basis of the shopping mall under the square right now. In the 17th century, the city wall was losing its defensive purpose, so the rondel was also changed into bastion.

西元1791年三月十八日，當時的巴伐利亞選帝侯卡爾．泰奧多爾（Kurfürst Karl Theodor）下令去除菱堡，重新規劃入門路線。此年諾依豪森城門也正式改名為卡爾城門。身為三座慕尼黑留存下來的古城門之一的卡爾城門（另兩座為伊薩城門與森德靈城門），在二次世界大戰後損毀嚴重，之後僅以簡單扼要的方式重建，為了符合十九世紀末建築師加百列．馮．賽德（Gabriel von Seidl）所改建設計的廣場圓樓，原先的側塔造型已不復存在。

On 18th March, 1791, Kurfürst Karl Theodor decided to erase the bastion and reorganize the route into the city. This year, Neuhauser Tor was also renamed as Karlstor. As one of the three ancient city gates (including Isartor and Sendlinger Tor), Karlstor was severely damaged after WWII. Later, it was only easily rebuilt and coordinated to the rondel, which was designed by Gabriel von Seidl in the end of 19th century, so the original design of side towers no longer exists.

圖片來源：自行攝影

目前佇立在廣場上的卡爾城門，其上的雕塑其實都有自己的故事：
城門北拱上有獻給賀伯特．顏森（Herbert Jensen）的紀念碑，原因是當初是他提議修建目前佈滿購物商家的人行區域。三座孩童雕像是當初1866年柯瑞德．克諾（Konrad Knoll）為魚市噴泉所設計的，但在1954年噴泉翻新後就閒置於此了。








在城門四角尚有四座小像，象徵慕尼黑的原創性：約瑟夫．舒茲貝克（Josef Sulzbeck），為慕尼黑民歌手、喬治．普拉格（Georg Pranger），宮廷中最後一位丑角、約瑟夫．胡伯（Joseph Huber），一位情書信使，以及法蘭茲．哈維爾．克倫克（Franz Xaver Krenkl），一著名馬商。每座小像下，還有用巴伐利亞方言寫的名言。

Every statue on the Karlstor right now has its own story:
On the northern arch of the gate there's a monument for Herbert Jensen, who suggested the building of pedestal zone in the city center. The three children statues were designed by Konrad Knoll for the fish fountain, but they became useless after the renew of the fountain in 1954.
There are also four small statues in the corners of the gate, which present the originality of Munich: Josef Sulzbeck, a folk singer of Munich; Georg Pranger, the very last buffon in the palace; Joseph Huber, a famous love letter deliver; and Franz Xaver Krenkl, a famous horse dealer. Under each statue there're quoted phrases in bavarian dialect.

圖片來源：自行攝影

另外值得一提的是，慕尼黑人常用另一個名稱來指稱卡爾廣場 - Stachus （史塔護斯）。這並非只是口頭相傳，連地鐵上報站名時，都會額外加上此名，就是為什麼呢？
原因是：十八世紀時，原先住在現今Kaufhof百貨公司現址上的佛德（Fördel）家族，固定在其所屬的花園內經營啤酒事業。自1728起，馬提亞斯．史塔護斯．佛德（Mathias Eustachius Fördel）在此經營其自己的餐廳，也因為這樣，這塊區域內的啤酒花園與餐廳也就被慕尼黑人加上了Stachus的稱謂。

Another interesting fact is that people in Munich usually call Karlsplatz "Stachus". It's not just a spoken slang, but it's actually mentioned when the underground goes by. Why is that?
The reason is: In the 18th century, Family Fördel was actually running their own beer garden on the square. Since 1728, Mathias Eustachius Fördel was running his own restaurants here; therefore, because of his name, the business here is also combined with "Stachus".

這座廣場不僅連結了市中心的主要購物大道，夏天更有清涼的噴水池，冬天也有躲避寒風的麥當勞......。喂！喂！可別以為我在開玩笑！根據統計，2006年，這家位於卡爾廣場上的麥當勞可是所有據點裡營業值最高的喔！下次購物之餘，不如也來瞧瞧這座被現代氣息包圍的古城門吧？

This square doesn't only connect the main shopping avenue, but also provide fresh fountain in summer and McDonald's in winter to get away from the cold winter.... I am not joking! According to the statistic in 2006, this McDonald's got the highest turnover among all the branches!
Next time after shopping, why not pay a visit to this ancient city gate surrounded by modern atmosphere?